My Big Chill

By Rheanna Kish

Breathtaking views, adrenaline-packed skiing and delicious food are the perfect ingredients for a Rocky Mountain high.

The crunch of heavy spring snow beneath my feet echoes through the ancient cedar stands as I make my way to the main lodge for breakfast. A glance skyward reveals the Lizard Range of the Rocky Mountains, brilliant pink in alpenglow against a backdrop of clear blue sky. I pause. A lone bald eagle peers down from its perch atop a spindly tree.Time stands still in the majesty of these mountains. My mind reels with excitement and anticipation of another perfect ski day at Island Lake Lodge in Fernie, B.C. I am the luckiest girl in the world.

Crossing the threshold of the lodge, I meet the heady aromas of roasted coffee and frying sausages. The philosophy of the chefs here is to make the food even more memorable than the skiing. Their dedication is visible in every item on the buffet. From fresh fruit salad, homemade granola and duck sausage to sweet potato pancakes and eggs Benedict, my taste buds are as revved-up as my ski muscles! The chatter is sparse as guests chow down on a hearty breakfast. Rumour has it that the guides are promising another perfect skiing experience. The electricity is palpable as the 8 a.m. departure time closes in.

The cat, my “luxury” ride up the mountain, is like a tank but with a cosy 12-person cab on the back. It sputters and grinds its way along narrow paths that have been carved into the metres and metres of snow. With inclines ranging from gentle slopes to whiteknuckle roller-coaster ascents, the ride up is almost as good as the ski down. I discover that the best way to enjoy it is to focus on the scenery. With 7,000 acres to roam, we rarely cross the same path twice, every corner revealing another shining vista that makes me want to never go home.

Standing at the top of a snowy peak with a breathtaking view of the endless Rockies, our guides, Rick and Brenda, give us the outline of the first descent of the day. With a signature yodel, Rick skis down, hollering instructions over his shoulder to keep his tracks visible as we follow. When my turn comes, I realize the excitement has me holding my breath, and I let it all out with a full-body “yahoo.” Every turn feels like I’m floating, and the trees are perfectly spaced so that I don’t have to think about them. At the bottom, after the requisite head count, we load back into the cat to do it all over again. And again.

Every day, the cat is loaded with a cooler full of delights to devour between runs. Fruit and vegetables satisfy in the morning; urban café-style sandwiches (roast beef with caramelized onions; chicken, Cheddar and apple; smoked salmon and cream cheese) and Thai vegetable wraps make up lunch; and cookies, bars and squares round out the afternoon runs.

By 3 p.m. we are all smiles and wobbly-legged. Skiing is over for the day. Après-ski awaits with steaming bowls of chef’s soup and just-baked breads. Photos from the day become a slide show on the big screen and legends are born.

Evening arrives and the main lodge turns into a five-star restaurant. A fire crackles in the fireplace. Flickering candlelight bounces off the glasses. Wine from the 3,000-plus bottle cellar flows as freely as the runs of the day did. The chefs outdo themselves with sauces and fresh ingredients that reawaken all the senses I thought had been overloaded by a day in the mountains. If the food isn’t better than the skiing, it is definitely on a par.

Absolutely sated, I saunter back to my quarters, the now-familiar snow-crunching sound cutting through the mountain air. Looking up reveals a canopy of twinkling stars, and in the moonlight I can see ski tracks on the face of Lizard Range. Knowing that some of them are mine makes me giddy. All I want to do is sleep – so I can wake up and do it all over again tomorrow.

Here are dishes from Island Lake Lodge, which we’ve adapted in our Test Kitchen for you to create at home. A big thank-you goes to Kelly Atwells, head chef at the lodge, and his amazing staff for creating and sharing some of my favourite dishes.

Click here to view recipes